A touch of roast hazelnut lends richness to chalk and lemon on this wine's evocative nose. The palate also combines richness and freshness, bedded on a concentrated core of cool chalkiness. Lemon oil shimmers around the edges, as does a slightly pithy bitterness that makes the mouth water even more. This wine makes you want to delve into its untold depth. It is certain to reveal more and more of itself. Drink by 2040.

The 2018 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has a generous bouquet, a little creamy in style, with light nutmeg notes percolating through the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with nicely integrated oak, a honeyed texture and traces of orange peel and pear toward the poised finish. Fine, but just missing some penetration overall.

A light touch of oak adds vanilla and a textural grain to this intense white. Green plum, apple and grapefruit peel notes are offset by a salty, savory component. Overall, this is focused and balanced, with fine length. Drink now through 2024. 120 cases made, 30 cases imported. - BS