The Conterno Fantino 2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris comes from a site in Monforte d'Alba that has a big component of loose sand in the soils. These well-draining conditions add to the softness and concentrated aromatic intensity of Nebbiolo. In fact, the bouquet here brings us a medley of red and purple fruits with some ripe blackberry and plum. It shows a hint of pretty cherry sweetness with spice, tobacco and candied licorice. The mouthfeel is full and generous, and this supple Barolo wraps smoothly and luxuriously over the palate. Some 9,100 bottles were made.

The 2016 Barolo Ginestra Vigna del Gris offers a striking balance of density and the more floral, high-toned notes that are so typical of this wine. Dried flowers, rose petal, mint, sweet spice and cedar are all nicely lifted. Beams of incisive tannin give the wine its vibrant, energetic feel. I would drink it first among these four wines.