A harmonious version in a firm, finely knit style, with a creamy mousse and a subtle range of toasted almond, baked pear and preserved lemon flavors underscored by minerally salt and chalk notes. Disgorged November 2018. Drink now through 2025.

A new approach for this producer, this Champagne is almost dry and has also had six years' aging before release. The result is a taut, nervy and well-structured wine that is wonderfully crisp. Great acidity and citrus flavors add to the effect. Drink now.

One of the most interesting wines in the Veuve Cliquot portfolio is the NV Extra-Brut Extra Old, a blend of reserve wines from 2010 back to 1988-though the latter only represents some 2% of the assemblage-that spent three years in foudre before tirage, followed by three years sur lattes before disgorgement. Opening in the glass with a complex bouquet of toasted nuts, candied peel, orchard fruit, peach and smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and saline, with a textural profile, lively acids and a long finish.