Though subtle, this is fresh and focused, with a fine mousse and tightly knit notes of white peach, blanched almond, smoke and grainy pear. Drink now through 2016.

34% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Meunier Lovely intensity of ripe apple, toasted brioche and lemon tart aromas with a waft of red berries. Crisp acidity, a little lacking in concentration on the mid-palate. Some chalkiness. Long finish. Elegant.

One of the best-known Champagnes on the market, this tastes relatively dry. It isn't losing its bright, open fruitiness, but that quality now joins a structured, mineral-driven edge. This could work as an apéritif or it could be paired with food.