A great California bubbly, right up at the top. It's unusual for a sparkling wine house to hold back their basic vintage brut this long, but J did, and consumers benefit. The wine has some bottle age, and is softly picking up nutty, dried fruit, floral and yeasty notes. Enormously complex, it should continue to develop for many years.

The aroma offers a rich scent of pear, hazelnut and a hint of lime, and those flavors carry over nicely on the palate, where it's concentrated and turns complex. Drink now. 20,800 cases made.