Plush, velvety texture with layers of cocoa, mocha, black cherry, boysenberry and plum flavors. Plenty of toast, but very creamy for an '03, with a long, fruit-filled finish. Best from 2006 through 2015.

The only special cuvee made in 2003 was Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz. This tannic, structured wine is showing toasty new oak, some barrique aging, plenty of cassis and cherries, and moderately high tannins in the long, slightly austere finish. It is a serious wine but needs about 2-3 years of cellaring and should last 12-15 years.

The top cuvée from the Domaine le Clos de Caillou takes its name from the stones of quartz which make up the vineyard. This is a deliciously rich wine, which shines with very ripe red fruits and layers of modern tannins. Although the aftertaste is dry, the fruit is already attractive.