($350) Inky purple. Intensely perfumed, sexy aromas of Asian spices, cherry-cola, violet, yellow rose and black tea. Fresh cherry and dark berry flavors envelop the palate, with zesty minerality providing added lift. Gains sweetness with air, picking up bitter chocolate and candied floral character. Finishes broad, sweet and seemingly endless, with the cola and spice notes repeating.

A gorgeous nose of crushed plum and Turkish coffee gives way to a plush-textured palate of warm fig, mocha, fruitcake and mesquite. Still a touch taut, but pure on the finish, with fine-grained tannins and mouthwatering minerality. Drink now through 2023. 800 cases made.

One of the most elegant and ready-to-drink la Landonnes in the past 10-12 years is the 2004 Cote Rotie la Landonne. Already perfumed and complex, with beautiful smoked beef, rose petals, forest floor and sweet dark fruits, it almost has a Pinot Noir-like elegance and seamlessness. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and with nicely integrated acidity, drink it anytime over the coming decade.