Shows the ripe, opulent power of the vintage, with dark plum, raspberry confiture, hoisin sauce and tar notes that are held back by youthfully stubborn tannins. Yet the long, sinewy finish has impressive drive, with hints of chestnut, game and mineral. Patience required. Best from 2009 through 2031.

The 2003 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin has turned out even better than I thought last year. Black purple to the rim, with an extraordinary nose of smoke, camphor, blackberry, cassis, sweet cherry, white flowers, licorice, and Chinese black tea, the wine has superb richness, huge tannins, massive concentration, and a monster finish. Forget this wine for 5-8 years and drink it over the following 35 or more.